This study aims to evaluate the in vivo efficacy in terms of elasticity, hydration and anti-wrinkle enhancement of a new cosmetic cream formulation: Apollinea anti-ageing facial cream. The latter is O/W (oil/water) emulsion with high volume percentages of snail secretion filtrate and donkey milk serum in its composition. The investigation has been performed on (twelve) healthy subjects: 8 (eight) females, and 4 (four) males, all presenting evident skin wrinkles in typical facial areas (e.g. forehead and eye contour). The subjects had to apply about 2 grams of Apollinea anti-ageing facial cream every day. The efficacy of the new cosmetic formulation was assessed before and after the cosmetic treatment, precisely 2 hours, to assess the short-term efficacy, and 40 days after, this to evaluate the product long-term efficacy. Elasticity enhancements have been tested through measurements of the viscoelastic properties of the skin, whereas the hydration parameter through measurements of the skin and subcutaneous tissues dielectric constant. All the latter measurements have been performed with specific instrumentation, as discussed more in detail in the following. To evaluate the anti-wrinkles efficacy instead, we proceeded with digital camera imaging and image analysis processed through ImageJ software. The new Apollinea facial cream cosmetic formulation, based on donkey milk whey and snail secretion filtrate from Helix Aspersa Müller, showed significant enhancement effects on skin elasticity and hydration as well as an important skin-wrinkles-reduction.
Tobin, D.J. (2017) Introduction to Skin Aging. Journal of Tissue Viability, 26, 37-46. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtv.2016.03.002
Farage, M.A., Miller, K.W., Elsner, P. and Maibach, H.I. (2008) Intrinsic and Extrinsic Factors in Skin Ageing: A Review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30, 87-95. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00415.x
Friedman, O. (2005) Changes Associated with the Aging Face. Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics of North America, 13, 371-380. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fsc.2005.04.004
Ramos-E-Silva, M. and da Silva Carneiro, S.C. (2001) Cosmetics for the elderly. Clinics in Dermatology, 19, 413-423. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0738-081X(01)00181-X
Temuujin, J., Senna, M., Jadambaa, T.S., Burmaa, D., Erdenechimeg, S. and Amarsanaa, J. (2006) Characterization of Nanoporous Materials Prepared from Montmorillonite Clay and Its Application to the Decolorization of Mare’s Milk Oil. Journal of Porous Materials, 13, 49-53. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10934-006-5489-z
Simos, Y., Metsios, A., Verginadis, I., D’Alessandro, A.G., Loiudice, P., Jirillo, E., Charalampidis, P., Kouimanis, V., Boulaka, A., Martemucci, G. and Karkabouna, S. (2011) Antioxidant and Anti-Platelet Properties of Milk from Goat, Donkey and Cow: An In Vitro, Ex Vivo and In Vivo Study. International Dairy Journal, 21, 901-906. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.idairyj.2011.05.007
Marletta, D., Tidona, F. and Bordonaro, S. (2016) Donkey Milk Proteins: Digestibility and Nutritional Significance. In: Gigli, I., Milk Proteins—From Structure to Biological Properties and Health Aspects, Chapter 10, InTech, Rijeka, 212-299. https://doi.org/10.5772/62597
Fantuz, F., Vincenzetti, S., Polidori, P., Vita, A., Polidori, F. and Salimei, E. (2001) Study on the Protein Fractions of Donkey Milk. Proceedings of the ASPA Congress—Recent Progress in Animal Production Science (Italy), 12-15, 635-637.
Vincenzetti, S., Pucciarelli, S., Polzonetti, V. and Polidori, P. (2017) Role of Proteins and of Some Bioactive Peptides on the Nutritional Quality of Donkey Milk and Their Impact on Human Health. Beverages, 3, 34. https://doi.org/10.3390/beverages3030034
Coppola, R., Salimei, E., Succi, M., et al. (2002) Behaviour of Lactobacillus Rhamnosus Strains in Ass’s Milk. Annals of Microbiology, 52, 55-60.
Chiavari, C., Coloretti, F., Nanni, M., Sorrentino, E. and Grazia, L. (2005) Use of Donkey’s Milk for a Fermented Beverage with Lactobacilli. Lait, 85, 481-490. https://doi.org/10.1051/lait:2005031
Cotte, J. (1991) Le lait, une matiere d'avenir pour la cosmetique. Le Lait, INRA Editions, 71, 213-224. https://doi.org/10.1051/lait:1991216
Blasi, F., Montesano, D., Angelis, M., Maurizi, A., Ventura, F., Cossignani, L., Simonetti, M.S. and Damiani, P. (2008) Results of Stereospecific Analysis of Triacylglycerol Fraction from Donkey, Cow, Ewe, Goat and Buffalo Milk. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 21, 1-7. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jfca.2007.06.005
Vincenzetti, S., Amici, A., Pucciarelli, S., Vita, A., Micozzi, D., Carpi, F., M., Polzonetti, V., Natalini, P. and Polidori, P. (2012) A Proteomic Study on Donkey Milk. Biochemistry and Analytical Biochemistry, 1, 109. https://doi.org/10.4172/2161-1009.1000109
Nazzaro, F., Orlando, P., Fratianni, F. and Coppola, R. (2010) Isolation of Components with Antimicrobial Property from the Donkey Milk: A Preliminary Study. The Open Food Science Journal, 4, 43-47. https://doi.org/10.2174/1874256401004010043
Al-Saiady, M.Y., Mogawer, H.H., Faye, B., Al-Mutairi, S.E, Bengoumi, M., Musaad, A. and Gar-Elnaby, A. (2012) Some Factors Affecting Dairy She-Camel Performance. Emirates Journal of Food and Agriculture, 24, 85-91. https://doi.org/10.9755/ejfa.v24i1.10602
Cosentino, C., Paolino, R., Musto, M. and Freschi, P. (2015) Innovative Use of Jenny Milk from Sustainable Rearing. In: Vastola, A., Eds., The Sustainability of Agro-Food and Natural Resource Systems in the Mediterranean Basin, Springer, Cham, 122-132. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-16357-4_8
Barker, G.M. (2001) The Biology of Terrestrial Molluscs. CABI Pub., Cambridge. https://doi.org/10.1079/9780851993188.0000
Simkiss, K. and Wilbur, K.M. (1977) The Molluscan Epidermis and Is Secretion. Symposia of the Zoological Society of London, 39, 35-76.
Campion, M. (1961) The Structure and Function of the Cutaneous Glands in Helix aspersa. Quarterly Journal of Microscopical Science, 102, 195-216.
Greistorfer, S., Klepal, W., Cyran, N., Gugumuck, A., Rudoll, L., Suppan, J. and von Byern, J. (2017) Snail Mucus-Glandular Origin and Composition in Helix pomatia. Zoology, 122, 126-138. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.zool.2017.05.001
Iguchi, S.M., Aikawa, T. and Matsumoto, J.J. (1982) Antibacterial Activity of Snail Mucus Mucin. Comparative Biochemistry and Physiology, 72, 571-574.
González, M.A., Egaña, M.P. and Muñoz, N. (2004) Crema de Caracol para tratamiento coayudante de cicatrices de quemaduras e injertos. Revista Chilena de Terapia Ocupacional, 4, 5-10.
Wilson, R.A. (1968) An Investigation into the Mucus Produced by Lymnaea truncatula, the Snail Host of Fasciola hepatica. Comparative Biochemistry and Physiology, 24, 629. https://doi.org/10.1016/0010-406X(68)91016-5
El Mubarak, M.A., Lamari, F.N. and Kontoyannis, C. (2013) Simultaneous Determination of Allantoin and Glycolic Acid in Snail Mucus and Cosmetic Creams with High Performance Liquid Chromatography and Ultraviolet Detection. Journal of Chromatography A, 1322, 49-53. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chroma.2013.10.086
Saito, M.L. and Oliveira, F. (1986) Confrei: Virtudes e problemas. Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 1, 74-85. https://doi.org/10.1590/S0102-695X1986000100009
Shestopalov, A.V., Shkurat, T.P., Mikashinovich, Z.I., Kryzhanovskaya, I.O., Bogacheva, M.A., Lomteva, S.V., Prokofev, V.N. and Guskov, E.P. (2006) Biological Functions of Allantoin. The Biological Bulletin, 33, 437-440. https://doi.org/10.1134/S1062359006050037
Veraldi, S., Menter, A. and Innocenti, M. (2008) Treatment of Mild to Moderate Seborrhoeic Dermatitis with MAS064D (Sebclair) a Novel Topical Medical Device: Results of a Pilot, Randomized, Double-Blind, Controlled Trial. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 22, 290-296. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2007.02404.x
Ulhôa Araújo, L., Grabe-Guimarúes, A., Furtado Mosqueira, V.C., Martins Carneiro, C. and Silva-Barcellos, N.M. (2010) Profile of Wound Healing Process Induced by Allantoin. Acta Cirúrgica Brasileira, 25, 7-10.
Conte, R. (2016) Recent Advances on Nano Delivery of Helix mucus Pharmacologically Active Components. International Journal of Nano Dimension, 7, 181-185.
Tsoutsos, D., kakagia, D. and Tamparopoulos, K. (2009) The Efficacy of Helix aspersa Müller Extract in the Healing of Partial Thickness Burns: A Novel Treatment for Open Burn Management Protocols. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 20, 219-222. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630802582037
Kim, S.J., Park, J.H., Kim, D.H., Won, Y.H. and Maibach, H.I. (1998) Increased in Vivo Collagen Synthesis and in Vitro Cell Proliferative Effect of Glycolic Acid. Dermatologic Surgery, 24, 1054-1058. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.1998.tb04074.x
Tundis, R., Loizzo, M.R., Bonesi, M. and Menichini, F. (2015) Potential Role of Natural Compounds against Skin Aging. Current Medicinal Chemistry, 22, 1515-1538. https://doi.org/10.2174/0929867322666150227151809
Krutman, J. and Gilchrest, B. (2006) Skin Aging. Springer, Berlin.
Südel, K.M., Venzke, K., Mielke, H., et al. (2005) Novel Aspects of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging of Human Skin: Beneficial Effects of Soy Extract. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 81, 581-587. https://doi.org/10.1562/2004-06-16-RA-202.1
Quatresoo, P. and Piérard, G.E. (2009) Immunohistochemical Clues at Aging of the Skin Microvascular Unit. Journal of Cutaneous Pathology, 36, 39-43. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0560.2008.00994.x
Zanchetta, L.M., Kirk, D., Lyng, F., Walsh, J. and Murphy, J.J. (2010) Cell-Density-Dependent Changes in Mitochondrial Membrane Potential and Reactive Oxygen Species Production in Human Skin Cells Post Sunlight Exposure. Photodermatology Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, 26, 311-317. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0781.2010.00551.x
Binic, I., Lazarevic, V., Ljubenovic, M., Mojsa, J. and Sokolovic, D. (2013) Skin Ageing: Natural Weapons and Strategies. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, Article ID: 827248.
Brieva, A.G., Guerrero, A. and Pivel, J.P. (1999) Antioxidative Properties of a Mollusc Secretion (SCA, a Skin Protective Product). Methods and Findings in Experimental and Clinical Pharmacology, 21, 175.
Iglesias-de la Cruz, M.C., Sanz-Rodr1guez, F., Zamarro, A., Reyes, E., Carrasco, E., Gonzalez, S. and Juarranz, A. (2012) A Secretion of the Mollusc Cryptomphalus aspersa Promotes Proliferation, Migration and Survival of Keratinocytes and Dermal Fibroblasts in Vitro. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34, 183-189. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00699.x
Brieva, A., Philips, N., Tejedor, R., Guerrero, A., Pivel, J.P., Alonso-Lebrero, J.L. and Gonzalez, S. (2008) Molecular Basis for the Regenerative Properties of a Secretion of the Mollusk Cryptomphalus aspersa. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 21, 15-22. https://doi.org/10.1159/000109084
Tribo-Boixareu, M., Parrado-Romero, C., Rais, B., Reyes, E., Vitale-Villarejo, M. and González, S. (2009) Clinical and Histological Efficacy of a Secretion of the Mollusk Cryptomphalus aspersa in the Treatment of Cutaneous Photoaging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22, 247-252.
Fabi, S.G., Cohen, J.L., Peterson, J.D., Kiripolsky, M.G. and Goldman, M.P. (2013) The Effects of Filtrate of the Secretion of the Cryptomphalus aspersa on Photoaged Skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 12, 453-457.
Ikya, J.K., Umenger, L.N. and Iorbee, A. (2013) Effects of Extraction Methods on the Yield and Quality Characteristics of Oils from Shea Nut. Journal of Food Resource Science, 2, 1-12. https://doi.org/10.3923/jfrs.2013.1.12
Petworth (2009) Artful Teasing Guide to the Benefits of Shea Butter. http://colinsbeautypages.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/shea-butter-e-book
Fintract Inc. (1999) Market and Technical Survey: Shea Nuts. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.39.4739&rep=rep1&type=pdf
Lovett, P. (2004) Production, Transformation and Marketing in West Africa. WATH Technical Report No. 2.
Kaana, A. and Tabitha, A.A. (2015) African Shea Butter as a Staple and Renewable Bioproduct. International Journal of Science and Research (IJSR), 4, No. 12. https://www.ijsr.net/archive/v4i12/NOV152415.pdf
Zeeshan, A. (2010) The Uses and Properties of Almond Oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, 16, 10-12.